Ask a Bruxellois to recommend their favourite restaurant and their eyes will light up.

Choose from art nouveau at three-Michelin starred Comme Chez Soi to bar-lounge drama at trendy Cospaia and the simplicity of a fish restaurant at place Sainte-Catherine. Classic dishes range from creamy waterzooi (fish or chicken soup) to comforting mussels and chips, and gamey meat slow cooked in beer.

A well-heeled crowd dine around Grand Sablon square at intimate little eateries that buzz with office gossip during the day and turn romantic as evening falls. Sunday morning is busy with antiques browsers.

The old fish market was located on place Sainte-Catherine and this low-key square, and the little streets leading off it, are still the place to eat fresh fish. This is no-frills, full-flavour dining away from the tourists – although dress up a little to feel at home at expensive fish restaurants like La Belle Maraichère.

Stylish but relaxed little restaurants provide welcome shopping stops and intimate nightlife haunts. A young bohemian crowd come here, and flavours range from French to Belgian and North African.

When restaurateurs want to make a splash, designer-lined avenue Louise and boulevard de Waterloo are the preferred spots. Think bar-restaurant-club hybrids, plasma screens and a 35+ Gucci-clad crowd.

Tourists top up the prices at restaurants overlooking the Grand' Place and in the streets around, like rue des Bouchers and Petite rue des Bouchers. Huge displays of seafood and appealing terrace tables don't guarantee quality, although you can be assured of a good meal at formal Aux Armes de Bruxelles, and art deco brasserie Chez Vincent. Bank balance permitting, dine at three-starred Comme Chez Soi.

The European Union has brought more than bureaucracy to Brussels. Italian, Spanish and Greek restaurants feed diplomats, lobbyists and journalists at working lunches around the Rond Point Schuman.

Bruxellois dine late and restaurants fill up at around 9pm. Tips are included in the bill, so only tip if the service is exceptional. Many restaurants are open on Sunday, although some close on Monday.