Strasbourg ping-ponged between Germany and France for centuries. Today the capital of wine-growing Alsace is a loveable mix of Teutonic might and French joie de vivre. All canals and cobblestones, half-timbered houses and Gothic spires, this UNESCO World Heritage Site on the River Ill weaves fairy-tale charm with the European Parliament's political clout.

Strasbourg shrinks beneath Gothic Notre-Dame Cathedral and the 17th-century Vauban Dam in canal-crossed Petite France. The sumptuous Rohan Palace shelters art gems, while Picasso graces the walls of the glass-fronted Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art beside the River Ill.

Take home local cheese from La Cloche à Fromage and Edouard Artzner's famous foie gras. Designer labels from Hermès to Gucci line sleek boutiques on the Rue des Orfèvres and Rue de la Mésange. Seek out local arts and crafts including delicately crafted Betschdorf and Soufflenheim pottery and high-quality linen around the Place de la Cathédrale, and high-street names on the Place des Halles.

When the weather warms up, rest in Strasbourg's parks. A giant water lily blooms in the Botanical Garden, home to 6000 species and three glasshouses. Stroll past the waterfall and lake in the Orangerie Park, or enjoy 360º views from the circular Jardin de la Place de la République. Glide across France's largest ice rink, the Olympic-sized L'Iceberg.

The illuminated Place de la Cathédrale comes alive after dark at the Boutique Culture, staging world-class drama, dance and classical concerts. For innovative ballet and opera make your way to L'Opéra National du Rhin, while big names such as the Strasbourg Philharmonic Orchestra perform at the Palais de la Musique et des Congrès, north of the centre. Contemporary performances take to the stage at the six-level Cité de la Musique et de la Danse, the €30m brainchild of French architect Henri Gaudin.

Strasbourg serves hearty Alsatian staples with French finesse. Feast on Flammekueche (or tarte flambée to Francophiles: thin, crispy tart topped with a choice of ingredients, often including cheese, ham and/or mushrooms) in the central Place de la Cathédrale. Sip Pinot on a riverside terrace in Petite France. World flavours from Italian to Lebanese spice up student hub Krutenau. Splurge on two-starred Michelin cuisine at sky-lit Au Crocodile and three-starred Au Buerehiesel.

The avant-garde Art Café blends Strasbourg's love of art and food behind the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art's glass walls. Dine beside the huge Japanese Aki Kuroda fresco, or on the terrace for fine views over Petite France and the River Ill.