At the hub of Europe's high-speed rail network, diminutive Lille has made a name for itself with superb Franco-Flemish gastronomy, a world-class arts scene, lively nightlife and excellent shopping. With its winding narrow streets leading to elegant squares, this northern city is a delight.

Lille's broad Flemish squares lined with extravagant buildings are the backdrop for airy cafés and cosy restaurants. Wallow in world-class art at the Palais des Beaux-Arts in the heart of town, or see the sculptures at La Piscine - Museum of Art & Industry, an intriguing art space set within a refurbished 1920s swimming pool.

Find snappy designer wear, chic shoes and antiques along the cobbled streets of rue de la Monnaie and rue la Grande Chaussée in Lille Old Town, and high-street fashions in the pedestrian streets behind the Grand' Place. Rummage for food, flowers and flea-market bargains at Sunday's enormous Wazemmes market. Malls such as Euralille right by the Eurostar station are convenient as a one-stop shop, while factory outlets in nearby Roubaix, a tram-ride away, offer up to 70% off designer labels.

For a city of narrow winding streets, Lille has a surprising number of open spaces. People-watch in the main squares or take the kids to the free zoo in the park and woodlands around the Citadelle. Just nearby is Parc Vauban with its orchard and a children's puppet theatre. Take a picnic to verdant Parc Matisse by the original city walls, or stroll through the former car park transformed in 2006 into the Parc Jean-Baptiste Lebas.

There is plenty going on in Lille, from live music in traditional bars to the celebrated Centre Chorégraphique National in nearby Roubaix. The restored Opéra de Lille has a varied programme of opera and dance, while the Orchestre Nationale de Lille performs at the Nouveau Siècle concert hall, behind Grand' Place. Check out new musical talent at the Maison Folie Wazemmes and Aeronef, or see who's on at the cavernous Zenith arena, where major rock bands often play.

Several local chefs serving classic French cuisine have made it into major foodie guides but honest Flemish cuisine of seafood and stews are firm favourites with the lunch crowd. Sit at a café terrace on the Grand' Place or dine on modern European or more traditional dishes at candle-lit, cosy restaurants in Lille Old Town, along the rue Lepelletier and rue de Gand. If contemporary Europe gets too much, head out to Wazemmes for a spicy Moroccan meal.

Skip the standard breakfast in chain hotels and instead have your petit dejeuner in style in the lobby of the Hotel Hermitage Gantois, or under chandeliers at Paul's bakery on rue de Paris.