Dine in art deco grandeur in a Parisian bistro by the splendid Opéra or find a romantic little restaurant in Saint-Germain.

You will need a fat wallet (or expense account) to dine within the triangle d'or (formed by avenues Montaigne and Georges V, plus the Champs-Elysées). Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athené is legendary, but watch out for overpriced mediocrity on the Champs-Elysées.

Dress shabby chic and bring an intellectual tome to slip conspicuously into your pocket in literary Saint-Germain des Prés. At lunchtime there's a buzz as writers and editors talk shop. In the evening, the mood softens to romantic in the little local restaurants that this area does so well.

Tourists take over the top of the butte of Montmartre but around métro Abesses, little bistros and ethnic eateries draw a young, grungy crowd. There's no need to book or dress up.

Typical Parisian bistros cook up seafood and steaks along the wide Opéra boulevards. Head down the little surrounding streets for reasonably priced Japanese restaurants, where the food surpasses the décor. This district is also home to Gérard Depardieu's La Fontaine Gaillon.

The hip Marais district (métros La Republique/Temple/St Paul) offers a mix of ambiences from falafel snacks and gefilte fish on the rue des Rosiers to stylish little restaurants in the gay area. It's particularly vibrant on Sunday.

Up-and-coming Oberkampf draws a young crowd to its little bistros and petits restaurants sympa. Wear jeans.

If the allure of classic French food wears off, the attraction of the 13th arrondissement may prove irresistible in the heart of Europe's largest Chinese community.

Waiters don't expect tips but if the service is excellent, a reward of one or two euros will be welcome. For non-stop and late dining, bistros are the safest bet (Flo brasseries, including the famous Bofinger, open daily until 1am). Many restaurants (except really small ones and Michelin stars) are open Sunday, particularly in the Marais and Bercy Village. August is still a dining desert in Paris – do your research and book in advance.